Rei Kawakubo on Black, AI, and Design Advice
In a rare interview, Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo discusses her Autumn/Winter 2026 collection 'Ultimately Black', her views on artificial
Rei Kawakubo presented her Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, titled 'Ultimately Black', in August 2026. In a rare interview with Dazed magazine's autumn 2026 issue, the designer explained the collection's focus and shared her perspectives on creativity.
Kawakubo described the collection as a realization that black remains essential to her artistic expression. "Black is the colour of resistance, of justice and of independence," she stated. The show featured 20 black looks, which the designer described as having a funereal quality reminiscent of Victorian mourning dress, incorporating corsets, crinolines, bustles, lace, tulle, velvet, and silk.
Six vivid pink looks punctuated the predominantly black presentation. When asked about the pink's association with femininity, Kawakubo dismissed any specific meaning. "The pink in this collection has no particular meaning; it exists solely to enhance or reinforce the black, like a spice," she explained.
The Emotional Impact
The show reportedly moved one seasoned fashion editor to tears. When asked if she consciously tries to evoke emotion, Kawakubo offered a characteristically enigmatic response. "There is no specific purpose - it is not always 'for something'," she said. "I seek something new, but what the result brings about is something I do not know."
She also clarified that the relationship between clothing and the body is not her primary theme. The collection featured fabric manipulated to balloon and cocoon the body, with extreme, abstracted proportions created through ruches, ruffles, pleats, and patches.
On Fashion's Role and AI
Kawakubo was asked about fashion's role in responding to what she described as "very dark times." She believes fashion has a positive effect. "By expressing oneself through what one wears, one’s spirits are lifted," she said.
The interview also touched on the role of artificial intelligence in creativity. Kawakubo presented a stark contrast between human and machine creativity. "If there are 100 people, all 100 will be different," she observed. "In the case of AI, all 100 would more than likely give almost the same answer."
Her advice for young designers starting out was succinct and direct. "To the younger generation: just keep going, keep going," Kawakubo urged. The designer, known for her reticence, has a legendary reputation for letting her work speak for itself. An anecdote recounted in the article involves a journalist asking Kawakubo what she was thinking about when designing a collection; the designer responded by drawing a circle on a piece of paper and walking away.
The Comme des Garçons A/W26 show was noted for its lack of celebrities, influencers, or famous models, focusing solely on the clothes presented on a straight catwalk. The Dazed magazine issue featuring the full interview goes on sale internationally from September 10, 2026.
